Solid 3/4" Thick, Premium Hardwood Flooring
   Cut Square Both Ends

  3/4" Thick x Random Width x Random Length 
(average 1' through 8' Lengths )

Two Flooring Types
*Prices are the same for Micro-Bevel and Straight Edge.

MICRO-BEVEL:  Tongue and Grooved, Pre-Sanded (Not Pre-Finished)

Ready to install and finish -- We feature the micro-bevel because it is do-it-yourself friendly and saves a lot of time and money to achieve the same results as straight edge flooring, which must be sanded.   The micro bevel cut is very small and 3 coats of polyurethane tend to make it even smaller.  Some people ask if the micro bevel is a “dirt catcher”.  The maintenance of micro-bevel is exactly the same as for straight edge.   Use a dry dust mop and vacuum occasionally. 

Note:  For very large flooring jobs, it is easier to rent a low speed buffer with 100 or 120 grit Scotch Bright Pad to clean floor, or sand between coats.

STRAIGHT EDGE, Tongue and Grooved, Not Pre-Sanded (Not Pre-Finished)
(Must be Sanded by Customer!)

For many years, the only way to sand a straight edge floor was with a machine called a drum sander.  This is what professional floor finishers use.  You can rent them at a rental store and some do-it-yourselfers use them.  They are very heavy, difficult to use, and easy to make mistakes with, also a different machine must be used called an edge sander around the edge of the room. 
With the new milling machinery used today, the fit of straight edge floors is much more exact and flush.   Now there is a new type of sander that is available from your local Rent-All.  Flecto’s Varathane DIY floor finishing system is a 130-pound, walk-behind Squar-Buff oribital sander with a 12x18” base.  The pad jiggles around to cut through the finish with dime-sized swirls. To use the machine, you simply
stick various grit, adhesive backed 3M sandpaper sheets to a large 3M Scotch-Brite pad and set the rubber-toothed sander base on top.  Then let the weight of the tool do the work.  The biggest differences between the new orbital unit and the traditional belt sander are that the orbital sander is far less aggressive and much easier to control.

Measuring Tips: 
To calculate square footage: Multiply the width by the length for each room, which gives you the square footage for each individual room. When measuring your room, measure to the widest part of the room (width) and to the longest part of the room (length), as if it were a square or rectangle. Be sure and include closets and other alcoves in your measurement.  To be on the safe side, add an additional 5% - 10% to your final square footage for waste to arrive at the total square footage you need to purchase. Allowing for waste is important when installing hardwood floors because cutting and trimming boards to fit must be considered. Furthermore, the installer needs to have extra flooring to allow for a matching pattern and blending color variations. Consult with your installer if you are uncertain as to the complexity of the installation and to make sure you order an adequate amount of flooring. It is good to have a little left over in case repairs are needed in the future.

Shipping:
 

Most hardwood floor orders are shipped via motor freight  within 2 weeks to the continental US only.  Orders are shipped on pallets and shrink wrapped to prevent moisture.

Please read important handling information below.

Preventing Moisture Problems:

BEFORE DELIVERY: The building must be closed-in with windows and exterior doors in place and sheetrock installed with at least one coat of paint.  Heating and cooling systems should be operating for at least a week to reduce overall moisture content in the house.  Never pour concrete after flooring is delivered. 

(To maintain dryness levels, avoid unloading in rain, snow, or excessively humid conditions.)

AFTER DELIVERY:  (HANDLING & STORAGE) Flooring should be stored in a dry, well ventilated closed building. Flooring should be allowed to acclimate 3-4 days to the equilibrium moisture content of the area.  Flooring should be broken up into small lots and stored in the rooms where it will be installed. 

The MOST frequent cause of moisture problems in a new home is moisture trapped within the structure during construction and/or a continuing source of excess moisture from the basement, crawl space, or slab. These moisture sources can cause problems with wood flooring. A properly placed vapor barrier can prevent or reduce problem moisture from entering the home.

 Hardwood flooring is kiln-dried to 6-9% moisture content. To maintain dryness levels check for the following conditions and if they exist, correct them.   Water or excessive moisture underneath or in the house, insufficient ventilation under the house, wet subfloors, inadequate moisture barriers.

WOOD JOIST CONSTRUCTION:  For a new home with wood joist construction, after the roof, windows and exterior doors are installed, place 6 mil polyethylene film over the crawl space earth as soon as possible. Cover the earth I00%. Overlap the sheets; turn up at foundation walls, and weight down to avoid dislocation.   Vents must be provided to supply adequate cross ventilation.  The floor joists must be fully insulated before installing hardwood flooring to ensure that moisture does not work its way into the plywood sub floor.

SUB FLOOR-PREFERRED -3/4” thick plywood